February Highlights: London Fashion Week AW18 Trends
By Grace Bessy
The Maxi Tulle
The bigger the better! Tulle creates voluminous silhouettes bringing the kind of dimension and drama you would expect to see on ‘my big fat gypsy wedding’. But of course this is high fashion. A big bright ruffle baby doll dress and Molly Goddard was back in her element. Burberry incorporated layered tulle as a skirt under a chunky oversized knit and Matty Bovan gave everyone a run for their money with dramatic confections [that would probably struggle down any average sized hallway!]
Day time Sequins
If you were thinking that sequins are your go to for the ultimate party showdown, think differently! At the Erdem show a roll neck under a sequin metallic dress teamed up with a grandad blazer- or as Erdem would say “something belonging to [her] husband” referring to what he imagined his muse Adele Astaire (who he drew inspiration from for the collection) would have worn with this glitzy dress. Alice Temperley also showed us her take on dressing down sequin with a utilitarian jacket over the shoulders and lace up boots.
A british heritage fabric that in all accounts signifies grandeur and opulence. The star piece? A buttoned up long coat. played with brocade in florals and metallic finishes, however Burberry decided that this piece should be worn solo as if it were a dress. Simone Rocha’s nostalgic version had billowing sleeves taking us back a few centuries while Marques Almeida and Mary Katrantzou also displayed a Victoriana construction in the form of a leg of mutton shoulders .
Check Your Tartan
Yes, you want to have this on your AW18 trend checklist. As designers brought a new lease on life to yet another heritage trend. Marta Jakubowskimade an empowering statement in a 90’s multi colored tartan executive tailored suit with accentuated shoulders.Emilia Wickstead and Simone Rocha showed relaxed midi/ ankle length tartan dresses in a pink and red palette. Less classic was Isa Arfen’s patchwork pinafore dress with a train, layered over an oversized white shirt. A playful detail on the denim were the plaid knee pads.
During times when speaking out on social and political never mattered more the LGTB community was celebrated in all it’s colourful glory. At the forefront was Burberry- Christopher Bailey’s farewell performance after 17 years designing for the fashion house, the collection carried a ‘proud’ message. Swapping the iconic haymarket check for rainbow colours which we also saw on reinvented archive pieces.Ashish’ fun multicoloured sequin jumpsuit and a floaty long dress atPreen became part of the same conversation - the future is bright!
Richard Quinn, recipient of HER Majesty’s British Design Award takes a 3 piece head to toe layered ensemble of contrasting floral palette in lime green, brown, purple and white. An asymmetric dress with a hood and cutout was a ninja- like floral creation by Preen. While Erdem kept it feminine with floral romance of the 1920’s through a dramatic floor sweeping gown.